Halfway to the Pole: Traveling the 45th Parallel

Day 13: Clarksville, New Hampshire

Not many towns on the 45th as it cuts through New Hampshire for 30 miles. We stop in to visit with Rudy Shatney, who runs a camp here at Clarksville Pond. Up until 1987 he was the fire warden.

"I never billed the town for my services as warden."

"How long did you serve?"

"Forty-one years."

That's the way things are done up here. No fanfare. And Rudy still keeps giving tips -- his knowledge of the area is legendary -- to hunters, hikers, and naturalists. Inside his cabin, Rudy makes some coffee. I spot a revolver on the mantel of his fireplace. "Pretty big gun."

"That's my .44. Shot nine bear with that."

But Rudy leaves the conversation at that. No war stories. "Got to get outside and pull in my wash before it starts to rain."

Day 15: Canaan, Vermont

Beatrice Mary Eugenia Schoff-Holmes was born in 1898, in the same house she lives in now. Work is something she likes to do; Beatrice won't quit until she has to. In 1919 she was made postmaster of Canaan, a position Beatrice held for 49 years. "They made me give it up -- mandatory retirement age. Beatrice told me something about the history of Canaan: "You know, some people did little and said a lot, and some people did a lot and said little."

At 89 Beatrice still finds things to do, like raising money for the new fountain being built on the town green. "Ah, the old one was all busticated; they never built it right to begin with."

From her parlor Beatrice listens to the work being done on the new fountain just outside her home. She sits, she rocks, she says little.

Day 16: Norton, Vermont

"Nelson Company" has two cash registers. Since the United States-Canada boundary runs right down the middle of this establishment, there's one register on each side, each with the proper legal tender. Ruth, Wilmot, and Miriam Nelson have been running this store all their lives; it's been in the family for two generations.

"We've lived here right along," says Ruth. Wilmot nods. Miriam adds, "A lot of tourists come by They call us the 'half and-half store. And they always want to know why the boundary comes down the middle of the store. I can't say; it's always been that way." Wilmot nods. We go out-side for a picture, and Miriam sees to it everything's in order: "Ruth, you better stand in Canada since I'm town clerk here in Norton." Wilmot nods.


Miriam, Wilmot, and Ruth Nelson make change on both sides of the border.

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